what makes a gyaru? part 2
So... now that we've covered the makeup that goes into the look, your face is done, what else are you missing to become clearly undeniably gyaru? There's a lot more that goes into the final result!
Hair Color:
Gals pretty much always prioritize their hair as another indicator of their style! They have a huge range of natural tones that are all go-to's... But of course blonde is considered the quintessential gyaru color and will always be acceptable~
Caramel, auburn, chocolate, and other shades of red and brown are all amazing options featured in every gal magazine! You see these tones especially dominate in ageha, popteen, and nuts!
The most gyaru color you can choose is the one where you look best! 💖 I would just say that for most gals black is the least ideal color... and that you should consider what your hair color does for your skin tone and the contrast of your makeup ✨️You should also consider how well it goes with your wardrobe (ie doing bright blue with agejo may be wayyy more difficult than its worth)
Hair Style:
The golden rule of gyaru hair is VOLUME!!
Your hair should have some poof to it even when it's straight! If your hair tends to go flat, you should either use texturizing products or hairspray to help combat it ✨️
Your hair should also always appear *intentionally styled* more than frizzy, messy, or like a rat's nest (unless you're going for that manba vibe that's intentionally meant to scare people off) 😭😭 If your unstyled hair likes to run wild, I'm not saying you can't keep your natural texture.. but I am saying it will look way more cohesive if you can find the right products to keep it looking healthy and well maintained! Flyaways and damage are pretty much a gal's worst nightmare (笑) Protective hairstyles like braids and locs are fantastic for most gyaru styles if they suit your hair type 👍 you likely already know if that applies to you (笑)
Gyaru also tend to use extensions because bleaching your hair all the time can lead to fried, unhealthy hair that needs to get chopped off 😅 they're not necessary but they help to achieve length and volume that couldn't be possible otherwise! You can often spot extensions in inspo of straight styles if you really pay attention ww
As far as styles go, straight hair is always classic as long as you style it with volume added✨️ Straight gal hair should never mean flat or otherwise unstyled!
Just about every variation of curls or waves is fantastic for gal 💖 it's the easiest way to elevate your look and the magazines are filled with both styles every issue ✨️
Short hair is also very doable 💖
It's usually kept around bob length, and still should be slightly layered! The right cut can go for a boyish gyaruo style or feminine curls!
The one exception to the volume rule is Ayame from Soul Sister! Shaved hair can be gal I guess, it's just.. really hard to pull off 😅 You have no way of adding volume to your hair without any, so you must double down with an intense makeup look if you're gonna try this 😬
My apprehension isn't that she looks bad at all! I think Ayame is super cool! 💖 It's only that I'm worried that beginners may struggle to successfully pull super short looks off until they have a strong foundation in the makeup!✨️It goes without saying that this look is for strong and bold styles only, and not typically for sweet ones like himekaji or agejo!
Nails:
Gyaru nails can be any length as long as they're styled and cute 💖
Originally, nails were always fairly short and focused on DIY decoration and polish that could be done by gals at home!
Even though they're amazing and the most associated with gal, XXL nails are inherently more at risk for breaks and may not be right for everyone... or their jobs! (笑) don't feel like you have to have super long nails if you work with your hands a lot, at a desk, or anything that that might make them a hindrance 💅🏽
Make sure that your nails are well cared for and polished in a flattering color, even if they're short✨️ The only nails that really *aren't* gyaru are neglected ones 💔
(Coming as someone who used to bite mine like the left picture above, I feel your pain if its hard to stop!! But throwing a solid wash of glitter on my nails and letting them extend past the finger even a little helped the look so much!! And once they're a good natural length, adding a little bit of deco to short nails helps them feel so much cuter and more satisfying 💖 Notice how much better each step of the progression looks!)
Tans:
Its important to note the history of tanning in gyaru, so that you have context for why its considered a basic element, before going any further!
❌️Go back and read the links at the bottom of my philosophy post if you haven't yet!!❌️
While many original gyaru started off tanning a little to emulate j-pop legend Namie Amuro and overseas trends... Japanese media jumped to spread exaggerated & negative images of gyaru as sex crazed, wild high schoolers... The news quickly blamed gyaru for the supposed boom of high schoolers participating in compensated dates (enjo kosai). Gals faced severe harassment and discrimination at home, at school, and even at work for simply looking gal. Those classic photos of gals sitting on the street to do their makeup and hair were sometimes because they couldn't do it at home, period!
The phenomenon of o-gyaru (where the o is to indicate "dirty") stems directly from how many gals took to living on the streets during this time, and their lack of clean clothes and hygiene 💔 For many it was to prioritize how much mileage they got out of their tanning & hair appointments on a strict budget, or because they simply didn't have a home. However, this was often poked fun at and made to seem like they partied eternally to the point of not wanting to bathe...
Gals report being yelled at on the streets, have photos taken without their consent, TV episodes dedicated to mocking them viciously, and as an awful cherry on top had to deal with adult men coming onto them no matter their age 🤮
All of this catalyzed the events to come:
Darker gal styles like gonguro, manba, and yamanba were all escalations in response to being told to quit tanning, and stop being "promiscuous and crazy" even for the girls who had never participated in anything like the stories the media kept pushing! They were told time and again by society to fit the rigid mold for Japanese women that insists "pale is ideal" and that good girls behave *quietly* and dress *modestly*. The more society pushed back the more rebellious gals became! It had the bonus effect of deterring unwanted advances from men who hoped they'd be as "easy" as the media portrayed 🫠 Men often complained that being too dark and wearing too much makeup made girls ugly (yikes), and gals saw this as a win! (笑) They would no longer be the coquettish and *slightly tanned* kogals that men & the media fetishized.
Many interviews with gals from the time assert that they felt being Japanese meant being "uncool" compared to the rest of the world, while to others it meant they couldn't have the freedom to dictate their own lives as they desired 💔 looking boldly different was escapism in many ways.. Instead of giving in to the pressure to quit, they turned to each other as a tribe and competed to outdo each other in the opposite direction ✨️
"Who's the darkest?'
"Who scares unwanted men away the most?"
"Who has the loudest laugh?"
"Has anyone ever even seen her without makeup?"
The early gals treated becoming extreme as a flex, with the prospect of being noticed on the street for a shot in Egg magazine an extra incentive ✨️ If you were featured in street snaps enough, you might even become an exclusive model for the magazine! A job that tolerated gyaru was rare... but one that encouraged it? 🤯
This pushed girls to continue to outdo each other, and how you looked underneath the facade became sacred territory not to be shared with others for many gals ❌️ Anecdotes tell us that model Buriteri was even afraid to be seen without her gal makeup at sleepovers!
"Buriteri never showed her face without makeup. 'Even when we had a sleepover party,' said Mizuno, 'the only thing she would take off was her eyelashes. After a shower, she would spend two to three hours in the bathroom doing her makeup. We would bang on the door if we had to go pee.' To this Buriteri would shout back, 'I am to shy to show you my real face!' She said doing herself up like that was a tool to hide her true personality. She was actually really shy and inhibited."
-Japanese Schoolgirl Inferno
I believe in keeping an open mind and trying to combat your own ethnocentrism (the idea that your culture is inherently correct and that anything outside of what you know must be "wrong") when discussing any unusual phenomenon in other countries, gal or not... But I'm also never going to claim that other POC can't feel uncomfortable with extreme tanning, or that it's even healthy (hello skin cancer!) It was 100% clumsy, and driven by teens who had mantras like "no future!" who lived for the moment and not the repercussions they might face later (or how others viewed them). Some gals clearly did want to look like their idealized version of other races as part of running from their identity.. Alba Rosa's clearly Hawaiian idolization is rampant with this; and the most infamous examples are B-kei and B-gyaru variants..
It's just impossible to separate gal from its history, & we can't change what happened. Yes, some examples of the style were appropriative and in bad taste. We can't just pretend like it didn't happen and sanitize the style to feel better. Revisionism stops us from being able to learn and grow! But by extension of that we must consider both why it all happened *and* how certain aspects make darker POC feel now... so that we can make an educated & empathetic decision for ourselves going forward.
It must also be said that looking like another specific race was not the goal behind many gyaru either! One of my Rose issues has a whole section on coords to emulate Paris Hilton! (笑) "Amekaji" brands like Cocolulu strived to live out an American surf culture that was cartoonishly bright and loud, where everyone eats hamburgers all the time and goes to the beach every day! Other gals just wanted to look like dolls (like banba: a word that combines Barbie with manba!) or from another planet entirely 👽
Overall the style was seeking any escape they could from mainstream Japanese expectations, and gals wanted to get a rise out of those who hated them for being different. They thought that by looking radically different, they could gain the courage to act how they truly wanted and make change happen.
But despite the clumsiness of it all, for many gal enthusiasts the history of the tan is also why we love it so much 💖
It feels freeing for a style to finally say "we love your dark skin!" and that darker is better, after being told your whole life that the opposite is the only way to exist. To even be *popular* in the style for it as well! The most loved gal models in Egg through most eras were the darkest! ✨️ Buriteri, Kaa~tan, Mipochi, and others kept the style alive and had fans eager to emulate them at every turn!
All of this is far more nuanced than I'm able to get into in this entry, and everyone is going to feel slightly differently or want to draw the line in a slightly different place based on their own experiences. I'm never going to claim to be the definitive answer on this aspect, & only want to provide background for people who don't have it yet.
Back to the tans themselves... every style within gal can accommodate being more or less tan! Yes, even old school styles 💖
trends for clothing & accessories:
Gyaru have always been trend conscious! It's another way to signal to other gals that you're committed to keeping up with the style, plus they're fun! 😆💕
Trends may revolve around substyle, as most years of gal had a specific look you could point to as the must try vibe! A great example of this is that through the agejo boom, other styles also borrowed agejo trends!✨️ Brands like d.i.a catered to suitable pieces for the style... (yup, you heard that right, one of these tops is d.i.a!)
and even completely different style brands like Ghost of Harlem took a glamorous turn to stay noticed! 💖
More subtle trends tended to take two forms:
Specific shapes, cuts, prints, etc would be consistent across brands for the duration of the trend, or would get featured in magazines so you'd know what to look out for that season✨️
I'm borrowing these trend watch posts from the new defunct Universal Doll blog 💔 Mitsu used to have the best breakdowns 😭
Other overarching trends included the style of shoes worn, hair color, and even what eyelashes gals preferred! These trends tended to last for a while, like how pointed toes were extremely in vogue from 2006 through the agejo boom~
The other type of trend was specific "must have" items that gals of every style gravitated towards that season!
When I tell you this choker was EVERYWHERE I'm not joking! ww
This Lipservice dress was also in just about every magazine I read from when it came out~
I highly recommend looking for trends within the style of gal you like most, and determining which suit your style best! Being able to spot trends will also help you thrift offbrand items more effectively!
brands that scream luxury:
Designer brands were one of the first elements of the initial gal boom! It all started with short uniform skirts, a golden tan, a Burberry nova check scarf, and a dream (笑)
Gal was pioneered by coddled rich girls who wanted to be trendy in a global way, and part of flaunting their wealth was to put brand labels front and center ✨️ they notoriously loved wearing Burberry scarves with their uniforms so that they'd be able to show off at school too 🤯
The later influence from kyabajo (hostesses working at cabaret clubs) also contributed to the designer addiction for gals, as gifts from customers & being successful at their competitive job lined their closets with evidence of their desirability ✨️ Being able to flaunt as a kyabajo effectively told competition and customers that they were worth their price~
Its been a staple no matter the gal era to show off a bit ever since! You'll often see models posting their latest buys on their blogs and even instagrams to this day~
a "gal mind":
I purposefully put this one last, because even though it's an important aspect of gyaru, without actually doing the makeup and other elements nobody is going to recognize you as gal 💔 It's a hard truth, but how could they if its all in your head? I'm also going to assume that if you want to be gal, you want to be one that other gals recognize as one (笑)
So what is a "gal mind" anyway?
Let's go back to some quotes from Yone-san for perspective:
"Normally people who didn’t care about their surroundings would be the target of bullying. But gyaru were the first people who stood out on purpose, and didn’t care that they were different. Instead of getting bullied, they would be the subject of admiration and make people say, “woah, isn’t that person kind of cool?” even though they were different. It was the first time this kind of thing happened, ever."
"For 23 years, I was the editor of a letter column in Nicola, a magazine for middle schoolers, and during that time there was a reader that wrote in, “When I dress up like a gyaru girl, I am able to rebel against my mom. If I dressed in normal clothes, I had to listen to my mom. So from now on, I’m going to become a gyaru.” I replied, “Why is that?” and they said, “Because then I can say no to my mom.” Japanese people think that if they change their outside appearance, their inner self and personality changes too."
"The original gyaru didn’t wear mini skirts to attract men - they wore them simply because they wanted to. It was almost like chima’s uniforms and something unique only to them."
"real Gyaru culture isn’t about how one looks or dresses, but rather a mentality."
"gyaru found their own pastimes and searched for fun things to do themselves, instead of waiting for fun to come to them"
"The people who call themselves gyaru nowadays dress to impress men, so in my opinion they aren’t really embodying true gyaru culture"
"the media used or exploited the original gyaru and turned gyaru style into a “sexy, erotic” style. This is also when hostess/bar-girls started dressing like gyaru, making the culture into a costume"
-Yasumasu Yonehara (ex. Egg founder)
It's worth noting here that hostesses and other "ero" styles of gal have become synonymous with the style and are considered by many to still qualify! Nobody would argue that sexy items from d.i.a or ma*rs aren't gal! But questioning your motivations behind the style is always important 💖
Here's some other quotes to consider 💖
“Girls who, without caring what others think of them, try on the clothes they like, explore their style and develop their own personality that way. That’s what I think gal is about! For example there are lots of girls who change their looks and aura completely over the duration of only one year. When I see these transformations, I come to think that gal fashion can express people’s spirit and hearts very well. It reflects a lot of different things. You think “I want to become like this,” and through fashion you can search for your real self. “Today I want to be different than ever before!” – I think that is the challenge that builds character. I still think of my present self as 100% gal!”
- Mai Hirose (ex. Popteen model)
“True gals didn’t care what anyone thought them. They did what they wanted to, and they wore what they wanted to.”
— Sayumi Gunji (ex.ViVi Editor)
“Being gyaru means I have a place where I belong.”
-Kyon (Angeleek member)
From these and other quotes about the OG gyaru, my takeaway is that a gal mind means dressing for yourself and other girls in your community, and to use the facade as a stepping stone towards standing up for yourself and what you want! You shouldn't let how others feel choose your life for you.✨️ Gal is being bold and unapologetic for existing in ways you like... and forging your own path to live a fun existence even when one doesn't clearly exist for you! 🌺
To me, personally, becoming gyaru meant knowing eyes were on me and that showing how unhappy I was would only be that much more obvious... but gals are supposed to be happy and bright, so I should radiate that too! If I could find a way to laugh in spite of the harassment at school and home, then I was doing something to change my life for the better 💖 I used this mask as a crutch until it became actual positivity, and then over time it became second nature ✨️ Some of my gal friends from back then are still my closest friends to this day and I wouldn't trade that for anything 🥹💕
I wanted to become the easygoing girl who didn't care if her family hated how she looked and acted (because I didn't agree with their plans for me anyway!) while finally putting my happiness first 🌺 If I thought I love it, shouldn't that be enough? I was going to become like the cool gals I envied and looked up to no matter what!
Do some soul searching, it might take a while to understand the right mindset for you!
But giving yourself a purpose behind gyaru is one of the best things you can do on your journey 💖
Some food for thought to wrap this loooong segment up:
How do we know the girl in pink is gal if we ignore the gals around her and imagine her outside of Japan? Would brightly colored hair, a tan, and a sweatshirt automatically make you think gyaru? 🤔 Probably not if you're in America!
Egg model Yun on an errand day w
Would you assume she was gal if you couldn't see her tan, hair, and nails all visible at once? Does this match up to the inspo you save to look back on and emulate?
How about this gal? She's undeniably wearing d.i.a with circle lenses and even has a nose contour going, but do you think that this is the version of herself she presents on her socials? If her coord wasn't clearly d.i.a, would you still know she was gal right away?
The point I'm trying to make is that they all have clear gyaru elements despite the core aspects of the makeup being absent or hidden!
This helps them stay recognizable to us, but that we *also* know from gals themselves that without the makeup, these elements aren't enough to be truly gyaru. In countries outside of japan especially, bleached/dyed hair and skin tone by themselves don't signal anything gal-related in particular! 💔
Instead, we should see pictures like these as a way of incorporating gyaru into our daily looks even on days we can't go all out! If you've decided to commit to the lifestyle, having gal elements beyond the makeup can help you feel connected to the style even on your off days!
As hinted at by the name of this blog, my goal is to help you see & learn how to become the most gal you can be in a wearable and sustainable for every day way!
Taking the steps into becoming a lifestyle gyaru in mind & body (over someone who only dresses up as a gal) expands even past these elements and I can't wait to cover more of gal culture with you later 💖 But for now, incorporating these elements into your wardrobe will help you skyrocket into even more gyaru territory ✨️
until next time 💋
i LOVE your blog so much!!!!! i’ll definitely be looking forward to your next posts!!!! 💗💗🌺🌺
ReplyDeleteyour posts are also very helpful and interesting! ^_^ ive loved gyaru for years but its hard to find blogs (at least for me) that go very in depth!!! so thank you <3
DeleteAhhh thank you!! I felt the same for a while, my fave sources aren't active or even searchable anymore and its 100% a deficit we've gotta fill!
DeleteThat food for thought segment got me questioning & thank you again so much for Pt2. While dealing with life stuff, gyaru just keeps me sane.
ReplyDelete